Introduction
Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) are one of the most popular pet reptiles in the world — and for good reason. They're docile, relatively easy to care for, and come in a stunning variety of morphs. Whether you're a first-time reptile owner or adding to your collection, this guide covers everything you need to give your leopard gecko a healthy, comfortable life.
About Geckly: We're building a trusted online marketplace to connect gecko breeders directly with buyers. We're not live yet, but you can join the buyer waitlist or apply as a breeder to be part of our launch.
Natural Habitat & Behavior
Leopard geckos are native to the arid grasslands and rocky deserts of Afghanistan, Pakistan, and northwest India. Unlike many gecko species, they are terrestrial (ground-dwelling) and crepuscular, meaning they're most active during dawn and dusk.
Key natural behaviors to understand:
- •They don't climb glass. Unlike crested geckos, leopard geckos lack adhesive toe pads. They prefer horizontal space over vertical.
- •They thermoregulate. In the wild, they move between warmer and cooler micro-environments. Your enclosure should mimic this with a temperature gradient.
- •They are solitary. Leopard geckos are best housed individually. Cohabitation can cause stress, competition for food, and territorial aggression — even between females.
Enclosure Setup
Size
- •Minimum for one adult: A 20-gallon long tank (30" x 12" x 12") is the accepted minimum, though many experienced keepers recommend a 40-gallon breeder or equivalent (36" x 18" x 18") for better enrichment.
- •Floor space matters more than height. Prioritize length and width over vertical space.
- •Front-opening enclosures are preferred because approaching from the front is less stressful than a hand coming from above (which mimics a predator).
Substrate
Substrate choice is debated, but here are the current widely-accepted options:
| Substrate | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Tile (slate or ceramic) | Easy to clean, holds heat, no impaction risk | Less natural, no digging enrichment |
| 70/30 topsoil-sand mix | Naturalistic, allows digging | Requires spot cleaning, slight impaction risk for juveniles |
| Paper towel | Cheap, easy to replace, great for quarantine | Not enriching, needs frequent changing |
Avoid: Calcium sand, crushed walnut shell, reptile carpet (catches toes), and pure play sand for juveniles.
Temperature
Leopard geckos need a warm side and a cool side to thermoregulate:
- •Warm side surface temperature: 88-92°F (31-33°C)
- •Cool side ambient temperature: 72-77°F (22-25°C)
- •Nighttime temperature: Can drop to 65-70°F (18-21°C)
Heating methods:
- •Under-tank heater (UTH) with thermostat: The traditional method. Always use a thermostat — unregulated UTHs can overheat and burn your gecko.
- •Deep heat projector (DHP): A popular modern alternative that provides radiant infrared heat from above without light.
- •Halogen flood lamp: Produces the most natural heat spectrum (infrared-A and infrared-B). Increasingly recommended by experienced keepers.
Never use: Hot rocks (burn risk) or colored "nighttime" bulbs (they can disrupt sleep and are not truly invisible to geckos).
Lighting
- •Leopard geckos benefit from a day/night cycle. A low-wattage LED or natural room light on a 12-hour cycle is sufficient.
- •UVB is increasingly recommended but not universally considered essential. A low-output UVB bulb (5-7% T8 or equivalent) at the correct distance can support vitamin D3 synthesis and natural behavior. If you provide UVB, you can reduce or eliminate oral D3 supplementation.
- •Provide shaded hides so the gecko can escape light exposure when desired.
Hides & Enrichment
You need a minimum of three hides:
- Warm hide — on the warm side of the enclosure
- Cool hide — on the cool side
- Moist/humid hide — placed on the warm side, lined with damp sphagnum moss or paper towel. This is critical for healthy shedding.
Additional enrichment: cork bark, low branches, leaf litter, and shallow dig boxes add complexity and encourage natural behavior.
Diet & Nutrition
Leopard geckos are insectivores. They eat live insects — they generally will not eat pre-killed or dried insects.
Staple feeders
- •Dubia roaches — Excellent nutrition, easy to gut-load, low odor
- •Black soldier fly larvae (BSFL / calciworms) — Naturally high in calcium
- •Mealworms — Widely available, but higher in fat. Good as a staple when variety is offered.
- •Crickets — Nutritious but noisy, smelly, and can bite geckos if left uneaten
Occasional treats
- •Waxworms (high fat — use sparingly)
- •Hornworms (hydrating, low fat)
- •Silkworms (excellent nutrition, but harder to source)
- •Superworms (for adults only, high in fat)
Feeding schedule
- •Juveniles (under 12 months): Feed daily. Offer as many appropriately-sized insects as they'll eat in 10-15 minutes.
- •Adults: Feed every other day, or 3-4 times per week. Offer 5-7 insects per feeding.
Supplementation
- •Calcium without D3: Dust feeders at every feeding, or provide a small dish of plain calcium powder in the enclosure.
- •Calcium with D3: Dust 1-2 times per week (reduce if providing UVB).
- •Multivitamin: Dust once per week.
Gut-loading is essential. Feed your insects nutritious food (dark leafy greens, carrots, sweet potato) 24-48 hours before offering them to your gecko.
Health & Common Issues
Signs of a healthy leopard gecko
- •Alert and responsive
- •Clear, bright eyes
- •Plump, fat tail (their fat reserve)
- •Clean vent area
- •Smooth, complete sheds
- •Active during evening/dawn hours
Common health concerns
Stuck shed: Usually caused by low humidity. Provide a moist hide and gently assist with a warm, damp cloth if needed. Never pull stuck shed — it can tear skin.
Metabolic bone disease (MBD): Caused by calcium/D3 deficiency. Symptoms include wobbly gait, rubbery jaw, kinked spine, and difficulty catching prey. Prevention is far easier than treatment — supplement consistently.
Impaction: A blockage in the digestive tract, often from ingesting loose substrate or insects that are too large. Symptoms include loss of appetite, bloating, and lethargy. Ensure proper temperatures (warm belly aids digestion) and appropriate prey size.
Respiratory infections: Caused by temperatures that are too low or overly damp conditions. Symptoms include wheezing, mucus, and open-mouth breathing. Requires veterinary treatment.
Parasites: Cryptosporidium and pinworms are common in captive leopard geckos. A fecal test from a reptile vet is recommended for new animals.
Finding a reptile vet
Search the Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) directory for a qualified herp vet in your area. Not all veterinarians have reptile experience.
Handling & Taming
Leopard geckos are generally tolerant of handling once tamed, but patience is key.
- •Wait 1-2 weeks after bringing your gecko home before attempting to handle. Let them settle in.
- •Start with short sessions (5-10 minutes) and gradually increase.
- •Scoop from below — never grab from above, and never grab the tail. Leopard geckos can drop their tails as a defense mechanism. While the tail regrows, the regenerated tail is bulbous and different in appearance.
- •Handle close to a soft surface (like a bed or couch) in case of jumps.
- •Some geckos are naturally more skittish than others. Respect their temperament.
Getting Your First Leopard Gecko
When you're ready to bring home a leopard gecko, sourcing from a reputable breeder is the best way to ensure a healthy animal with known genetics and proper husbandry from birth.
What to look for:
- •Alert behavior, clear eyes, fat tail
- •Clean enclosure at the breeder's facility
- •Willingness to answer questions about lineage, feeding, and health history
- •A feeding record and hatch date
Geckly is building a marketplace to make finding reputable breeders easier. We're currently pre-launch — no geckos are for sale on our platform yet. If you'd like to be notified when verified breeders start listing leopard geckos, join our buyer waitlist.
If you're a breeder interested in being part of our vetted community, apply here.
Summary Checklist
- •20-gallon long minimum enclosure (40-gallon recommended)
- •Temperature gradient: 88-92°F warm side, 72-77°F cool side
- •Three hides minimum (warm, cool, moist)
- •Thermostat-controlled heating
- •Insectivore diet with calcium/D3/multivitamin supplementation
- •Gut-load feeder insects before offering
- •Spot-clean regularly, deep-clean monthly
- •Find a reptile-experienced vet before you need one
Leopard geckos can live 15-20+ years in captivity with proper care. They're a long-term commitment and a rewarding one.
Geckly is an upcoming online marketplace connecting gecko breeders with buyers. We're currently in pre-launch — no listings are live yet. Join the waitlist to be notified when we go live.